Tuesday, February 22, 2011
9 Gudda : The way back!
Monday, February 21, 2011
9 Gudda : Lost and Not Found!
Sleep was expected in the warmth of newly bought sleeping bag. Tiredness from a trek of around 15 km was supposed to push us to deep sleep. But sound sleep never arrived. It was so hot and humid that sleeping bag was used as pillow. Due to some unknown reason, I did not get good sleep at all. May be it was first sign of what was about to come!
By the way I did not get sleep in tent during my ‘Kumara Parvata’ trek as well. When I finally decided to come out of the tent, it was around 5:45 AM. Couple of guys from our group were seen roaming around. Flowing river was next to us and there was no issue for morning activities. By the time everyone got ready to start, it was around 7:30. Jeevan’s bag parted way with the second strap as well on Day 1 evening, just before we reached the falls. Again the bag was fixed with some rope work and the load of that was shared. Stale ‘Rotti’ was disposed there(!). Again this was supposed to be last point where we get water before we complete the trek. So everyone of us filled ‘enough’ water for us. It was to time to enter forest again following in a visible human trail.
Trek on Day 1 was tough. Soon we realized it would tougher on day 2. The forest was denser and tougher was our journey. Shashi was leading us again. With new hope, under the shadow of trees canopy, we were walking on what seemed like a trail made by living beings. Even the path was not straight forward. We had to make our way through some plans which had thorns. Thorns which were not seen till they introduced themselves to us with a mark they made on our palms and arms. Cute looking creepers seems to have liked us. While we made our way through a small tree/plant by ducking or pushing the plant aside, those cute creepers would ‘catch’ our backpack/sleeping bags/us and refused to let go. Those creepers were so strong that they did not budge to our full strength pull or push. Finally we had to surrender to them and take help from someone behind (from our group) to break the deadlock between us and creepers. They had to pull the creepers up or push the entangled person down to free him. At times I had to crawl to avoid those creepers. I recalled creepers catching humans in Hollywood thrillers. Similar was our fate, as most of the times had not noticed the creepers till they caught us. This was the case with young creepers. Old roots/creepers also played game with us. They were few inches above the ground and we had to carefully cross it. Sometimes I felt they were hidden under the soil and whenever we come near, it would come out to catch us. Several times I got my foot stuck in such roots and somehow managed my balance. But on one occasion, I misread the height of a root got misbalanced and fell down and hurt my knees. Pain killer spray got some relief for me. At this time, our group was split into 2 and I was in the group which was behind. After taking rest for couple of minutes we started again and found others waiting for us. Though there was some talks of having breakfast, it was ruled out as we were deep in the forest and were hoping to reach grassland soon(that was what we thought.)
Soon the visible trail disappeared.. We were moving ahead by checking the map , compass and GPS. Map used to come out every five minutes. Sometimes we used to spread the map on the dried leaves to see it clearly. Trek continued in the forest till we hit a road block again! An uprooted huge tree blocked our path this time and the way forward was not clear. Shashi was also not clear if they traced same path in his earlier trek. Nitin went alone little further and did not find proper way and came back. It was almost noon. But again breakfast was ruled out here as our calculation indicated that we were not far from grassland. unobserved by anybody, our stock of water was slowly reducing. We had the option to go back which was not taken at that point. So it was decided we will go ahead. Next few minutes of trek passed by without any major incidents. Trees canopy slowly started disappearing and sun was seen. A Small peak with small plants was seen at a close distance. Normally huge trees will not be there near the peak. Encouraged by the sight of those small plants, almost ran to reach that peak. Grassland was supposed to be there. And we saw canopy of trees again from there.
Someone accidentally checked his mobile and it got successfully latched to some BTS there. Well BTS is too technical, let’s say we got signal there. It was again indication that we were not far from 9 Gudda peak. It was again time to take out the map. Shashi put his hands into his pouch, came to me and said “give me the map” and I replied “where is it”. If the fact that we were more or less lost in a forest is not enough, here was another shocker for us. Map, which was almost our lifeline was not to be seen. we LOST the MAP! or it was map which decided to lose us, it was we who got stranded in a dense forest without knowing 'proper' way forward. (This was our carelessness. Absolute important thing should’nt have been lost). Going back to look for map was also discussed with that chances that we might have dropped map some where, but that was dropped as it would have been like finding needle in haystack.
With no map, we had only compass and Garmin(GPS) to rely on. Which also meant less accuracy!
It was almost like wandering in the forest for next few minutes. With the path we took since morning, we had to do one more steep climb at some point. At the end of that steep climb, We were supposed to get grasslands and from there walk along the grass lands to reach 9 Gudda peak. But the catch was, we had to start the climb the steep part at the right place. With no map, Shashi took the call. A steep inclination was found, which Shashi felt is the right time and spot, and started climbing and we followed. Everything on Day2 was tougher, so was this Day 2’s steep climb. It was loose soil and small plants/trees, which we planned to use as support spread throughout the inclination, had dried thorns. It was so slippery that I had to pull Kartick up using stick (was strong! which I had used for support) while he held another end. He then used the same idea to pull the guy behind him. Not sure if others followed that idea. But it worked great. Several times I caught a tree stem for support and thorns pierced my palm’s skin. I removed some thorns which was found by me over the tree stem so that other do not face the same fate. While it started to feel that this is never ending climb, heard a long whistle from Shashi and his loud shout from him followed it.
“Grassland!” Those words made me feel that this ordeal is over and perhaps adrenaline inside me kicked in. I climbed fast to reach where Shashi was. I could see Shashi surround by grass around 2-3 feet tall. I reached that spot and turned around to see who is behind. And nature’s beauty caught my eye. It was one of the amazing views of nature. Hills around entire area could be seen from there. Dense and green forest through which we trekked was also seen. Our planned original path was also seen. Smiles on our faces were also seen. What the future of next couple of hours holds for us was not seen.
The place where me and Shashi rested was congested and so Shashi disappeared inside ‘dense grass’ in search of possible path ahead and soon me and Deesu followed him. It was supposed to be a walk in the grass. But it turned out like rubbing salt on the wounds. Literally! Dry grass with tiny thorns on their edges embraced our arms. Inclination was still there and we had to bend our body forward and take support of grass from its root, while our naked sweated arms exposed to grass’s tiny thorns. It was more like sharp edges of grass than thorns. We had to make the our own path through those 3 feet tall grasses. One advantage we had in this climb was the grip we used get over grassed. ‘Sliding down’ part was not there. Without knowledge of how long we had take this grassy path to reach till top and with hope of reaching peak at the end of the grass, we were moving along bearing the pains. Disappointment was waiting for us again. As a bliss, grassland ended, and no prizes for guessing, we found ‘fresh’ tree canopy again. And to add to our woes, we encountered thorny bush beyond which there were trees. We had to cross that somehow to move forward. Without even thinking much, I covered my face and barged through one of the bush, while the thorns caught hold of my sleeping mat and started pulling me back. With full force I pushed myself ahead and may be gave away some tiny pieces of my sleeping mat to that bush and took shelter under a tree. Shashi climbed and tree to check for ‘any’ possible path ahead. Unfortunately no clear path were seen. Deesu and Shashi dropped their backpack near me and went inside the forest to check for the possible ways. I waited to guide the others to push through the bush to reach the place where we took rest. For next few minutes, none of them were seen. But I knew Chandra was near. I could clearly hear his cries of pain while he walked through the thorny grasses.
It took a while before everyone arrived there dropped their backpacks and rested under shade of a tree. It was around 1 PM then and we finally decided it was time for breakfast. It was chapathi with some pickles. And once again idea of going back from there flowed through. At that time I felt that also might be better idea, but the catch was we had to take the same path we travelled since morning for about 5 hours . With time running out, it looked like a bad idea, as it would have been difficult find the river back before sunset. Nitin took the call and rejected the idea of going back. Everyone was sitting facing the direction which we came from. I was facing the opposite direction resting my back on the branch of that tree. I was looking at the ants colony which was next to that tree when I heard sound of some leaves or dry twigs crackling. I looked towards the direction of source of that sound. I was shell shocked with what I saw. May be I did not feel that shock with fear which followed. I felt I saw like something, like a four legged animal walking not far from where we were. I felt it was black in color and had hairs all over its body. I felt like it stopped after seeing us.
Was it a Bear!?
I was about to shout and alert everyone, but stopped and had a look at it again.
Coming up in Part 4 : Conclusion
Thursday, February 17, 2011
9 Gudda : Changed plans
Being mentally prepared to what I am going to see I slowly removed my socks, there they were! Leeches! 3 blood suckers. SALT, the remedy was used to get rid of them. Though more leeches were latching to our feet, we decided to donate some blood and continue our trek, now through Jeep tracks. Moments later, time arrived where we had to make a decision. The jeep track divided into 2! Shashi suggested we have to take right track there and based on inputs by one of my friend, I wanted to take wrong track! I mean left. The left track was looking more like a walking path than a Jeep track. So it was decided that me and Shashi will walk a bit along the left track and if we see any further Jeep track will call the rest.Though path ahead looked like a Jeep track, wondered how would anyone drive Jeep along that track. With the visible Jeep track we called rest of the guys by whistle indication. Then we started walking in the Jeep track and were introduced to the dense forest. I honestly expected to see some wild animal in such dense forest. Till now we did not see anything else than leeches. Birds chirps were heard but no visual contact happened. A sweet singing bird even responded to our whistles without giving privilege for visual confrontation.
2 GPS is what we had. None were used till now ( I was checking if my Nokia GPS is working without AGPS support regularly.) as Jeep track was leading us. Our first check point was the place where 2 river streams joined. From there we had plans to start climbing a hill. Jeep track was supposed to lead us till that point and from there we were on our own. I mean with GPS. A dense forest bring quite a unique experience of its own. One such experience was, as we were walking along whenever we touch a particular kind of plant around 7 feet high, small insects whose number would be in hundreds would drop from their leaves and fly around without faring away from their group. They were like small mosquitoes. They looked harmless though. But blocked our path. I was really impressed with their ‘team work’. We had to duck below the insects to move ahead. A group of tiny flying insects forced us to bow to them brfore moving furthur. I thought NGC can have an episode on insects colony here. Still no traces of any other animals.
After taking left(wrong??) track earlier, I always had doubt if we are moving in right path. Even GPS In my Nokia was not showing our correct location. And the assumption was that we would not need the other GPS(old Garmin! Our life saver later). But soon we encountered the river junction. It was around 11 AM. Crystal clear water with shining reflection of sunlight welcomed us. Cold water from the river got rid of our thirst. Delicious breakfast was waiting. Akki rotti with Tomoto curry ( yes we carried it) with extra oil! We gulped akki rottis without keeping the count till our stomach was full with our taste buds still wanting more. As soon as we were done with our breakfast, it was time to jump into the water. After spending some 20 minutes in water, it was time to get back to our trail. As per our plan(??), that was the last water source till we complete the trek. So everyone filled ‘enough’ water and kept a separate water bottle with ‘Gatorade’ in it.
Here we did our first mistake(fortunate??)
We continued to trace the path which we found. But as per our plan we had to start climbing the steep hill as soon as we crossed the river. We thought there might be some ‘easy’ way to enter the forest and then start climbing the hill. To our delight, we saw that! When we started climbing the hill, a villager who was passing by warned us that we are taking wrong path and offered help to show us the correct path, which we ignored and continued climbing. Nitin and Shashi went ahead to check if we can actually climb the hill from the chosen path. After getting green signal from them, we followed their trail. Difficult part of trek had just started and hard part was still waiting. It was inclination of around 60 degrees and at certain places we had to make our own path through dried plans with thorns. We used to do such activity in college days in ‘Youth Club’ camps and it was called ‘bush Crafting’. But that was no way close to what we were experiencing. Suddenly my Nokia GPS started showing our location and gave us hope that we are on the right track. We were supposed to reach the peak of that hill in next 30 minutes. People were struggling to climb the hill. Thorns indicated their presence on our arms. To the utter dismay of all, we hit a road block! We had to climb over the rocks to reach the peak. Shashi broke the news to us that one cannot climb those rocks. We did not have climbing equipments as well. After brief search for any path around to reach the peak, it was decided to go back to the point from where we started climbing the hill and take the regular path. Climbing down was much more tedious task. We took more time to climb down and had more scratches on our hands. At the point , our original plan/route to reach 9 Gudda was ruled out. So we decided to take the normal route which is generally used to reach the peak and it was the same way which the villager went by. Was sure if we meet the villager again, he would burst out into laughter first. And we had to learn how to use the second GPS(Garmin). We were Engineers! And so discovered the usage of that GPS. It was small feature which gives current co-ordinates on GPS, but was enough for us.
Visible path which was made by people who walked along that path soon became invisible and we had no idea where we were. Tree canopy was such that GPS were not detecting any satellites. So we thought our safe bet is to walk along the river and find a place to camp and since we would come out in open, our GPS can detect some satellites.. With sun showing signs of coming down, smiles also started fading on our faces slowly. Now we know only one path properly. The path to go back from where we started. I thought a silver lining was due for us and was waiting for it each and every moment. The map we took used to come out regularly and we tried to mark our location with co-ordinates we got from Garmin GPS(second one. Thank god we took it). But exact position was not found properly even once. At one point Shashi thought he saw a path and started climbing a small hill only to reach a point from where we could move no further. Then again we came back towards river and started walking by the river over boulders. We were now doing valley trekking. While we were moving ahead, at a particular place, Nitin came to me and told “ This looks like the place where wild animals come @ night to drink water”. And I thought he watches too much of ‘Animal Planet’. We were happy for one thing though. Water was right next to us and we carried good amount of food.
And just when we thought we will camp at the next place we find where we can pitch the tent , we saw the ‘silver lining’. It was whitish and it was flowing. It was a water fall which can be seen at a distance. And above all, there was some movement above the falls. Felt like a man standing and looking at the falls. Since couple others also saw it, it was clear I was not hallucinating. Shashi and Sunil decided to go towards the falls to check if they can find the place where Shashi and group had camped before (Shashi’s earlier trek), while I waited for the rest and gave them the god news. We had discovered the falls! And there came the whistle from Shashi , which was some positive sign. We had to cross the river once to reach the waterfall, which took some time. And 5 min later we were standing right in front of the falls. For a moment I forgot all the worries and enjoyed the beauty of this amazing water fall, which hardly had any human interference. And then Shashi was ready with the good news. The camp site we were looking for was near, but still was 30 – 40 min away. The person whom we saw from the distance was still there was ready to take us to that camping spot. While Shashi and Sunil went towards that camp site, rest of us took some rest near the water fall. We had accidentally discovered a water fall. It was not huge, but it was very refreshing sight. Since this falls was not mentioned in any of the 9 Gudda blogs earlier, we found it safe to assume that we have discovered it J.I was so excited to see that falls that I forgot to ask the name of the person who agreed to help us reach the camp site.
Sun was about to come down and we set towards the camp site hoping for more rest there. Me, Nitin and Kummi were left behind as we were taking more snaps. And the journey towards camp site from there was one of its kind. We climbed rocks, jumped over rocks, ducked under tree branches, hugged rocks to cross it, found a natural swing, found places where one small mistake could have tossed us to the river. All these were on the banks of that river. And finally we crossed the river(yes again!) over boulders to reach our camp site. Chandra had some fears initially to cross the river over boulder. Finally he also crossed and we made use of the rope there for the first time in our trek.
Nitin and Deesu fetched some dry wood for camp fire. I with couple more pitched the tents. In no time we were ready for both camp fire and sleep J. Camp fire took the priority over sleep then and finally we realized, we had only 1 meal that day till then. And then food came out and a shocker was waiting for us. Rotti(jola) which we had bought was stale due to heat and humidity. This was not alarming then as we had surplus amount of chapathi for the night and next day. Ate food peacefully and few guys went inside tent to sleep. Me,Shashi,Chandra,Nitin,Sunil and Kummi slept around camp fire gazing at the sky. Millions of stars were visible that night which would reduce to few thousands in Bangalore. Under the stars, next to the river, with a known place(to shashi) found at last, we decided to drop the idea of going back and start towards our original destination of 9 Gudda Peak. We had new hope in our heart with ample food and water in our stomach. Unfortunately there was no song and dance session and everyone went into their tents to sleep. We carried only 3 tents with the idea that couple of us will give watch for the rest in turns. Even that went for a toss and everyone occupied their places in their tents with their sleeping bags.
We were never able to get our correct location on map as GPS sometimes used to give co-ordinates with some correction. So next day we had to consider that also. Plan was to wake up early next day and reach the 9 Gudda peak by noon. With the hope of getting good sleep and expecting dream of finding ourselves on 9 Gudda, I closed my eyes and thought sleep will sweep me. A more dreadful day was waiting for us.
Coming up in Part 3 : sleeping bags!, sleepless night, late start, missed path, lost path, lost map, lost hope,more Thorns, deadly creepers, Bear!, GPS ,mobile calls, low on water,so near yet so far, night trek, Chopper rescue?
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
9 Gudda: Beginning
Bharath and his friends reached that point of the river where they cannot go any further. Unfortunately, lack of GPS has hurt them bad. Inside the deep jungle and nowhere to go, multiple suggestions started to come by. Finally they all agreed to climb a small hill next to the river stream and check if they see any path or destination from there, only to find out dense forest as long as eyes can see. Dense and green with thousands of unseen insects and no traces of human interference. They knew only one path from there. The path they had traced till now. Going forward would have been a risk. Just when they were about turn back, one more group arrived at the scene who has GPS. Bharath and friends completed the rest of the trek with other group without much incidents. That was what Bharath thought. Couple of days later, he observed small blisters on his body. One on his leg and one more on his hand. He neglected it. 2 days passed by. Now he saw some black colored object inside those small blisters. When he observed closely, he found out that it was a small insect inside his skin! There were two! On of them dead(unborn) and the second one when touched jumped off and started to inspect the place. Afraid Bharath went to a doctor who assured him he is safe and if there were any more insects inside him, would have come out by now. Bharath thought some insect might have laid eggs inside his skin during his trek of 9 Gudda.
Bharath is still doing fine with no more traces of that insect.
With a midweek holiday in last week of Jan, I thought of going for long pending trek. Kumara Parvata was our last trek and more than an year had passed by since the last trek. Shashi had been to ‘9 Gudda’ last month. With lots of accolades heard about ‘9 Gudda’, decided to go for ‘9 Gudda’ trek. Roped in Shashi first to guide our team forward with his experience. And then started recruitment process for candidates for this trek. Mails were sent, phone calls were made, and with initial hiccups, finally there were 11 people ready for the trek. Interestingly @ a point there were only 4 people ready and confirmed for the trek and VK warned me that this kind of trek requires more people(so true).
Two days before the travel date me and Deesu went to Decathlon to check out compass and GPS. Ended up buying tents, sleeping bags and trekking shoes along with compass. But most of did not have trekking bags. Thanks to Moksh and Vijey, we were able to arrange few. Sleeping bags and sleeping mats for the rest were hired.
Barely minutes before ‘take off’ , Kalyan had to drop due to some personal reasons. Now we were 10 people. By the time we reached the starting point of our journey in Bangalore dodging Friday evening’s traffic, it was almost 11. Took some 30 minutes (or more…) to load the luggage to TT. Finally 10 people in TT were on their way from Bangalore for ‘9 Gudda’ trek. Couple of us were yet to have Dinner and most of the ‘Dhaba’ on highway were closed. Finally after checking out several dhabas we found one where we had delicious roti and sabji. It was now time to sleep like good boys in TT. But music in TT and bad road kept most of us awake . Around 6 AM (Day1) we reached Gundya checkpost. It was still dark. We decided to sleep till sun comes out.
Few minutes later, after packing our stuffs, we climbed back our TT to reach our starting point of the trek. After couple of ‘clicks’ our trek started. Fear that my back ache will do the spoil sport was always there. Now was the time for briefing! And introduction to the group. 10 of us. Me,Sunil(deesu),Nitin,Shashi,Chandra,Narayan(kummi),Kartik,Jeevan,Sharan,Bipin. Shashi did a briefing based on his experience. His own words ….
“ The trek is not going to be easy. There might be some wild animals in the forest. On the sight of any wild animal we need to stand still where ever we are (?? Shashi have u seen Jurassic Park movie? Part 3 to be specific). Do not throw plastic and papers. Be careful about snakes (there are some pit vipers there it seems). On the sight of Elephant/s, our trek will end.”
Everyone nodded their heads and Shashi started with his usual speed. He was thin and has less weight to carry apart from the packed stuffs. Same was not the case with all! It was decided that Shashi will be the leader and Deesu will be the sweeper. Initial few minutes of trek(walk??) passed through farms without any incident. Just before entering the forest, there was a small ditch which we had to jump and cross. First four people crossed it without any problems. When my turn arrived, I made sure not to give any sudden jerk to my back. Next to me was Jeevan. When he jumped over the ditch, he stopped at that instant and dropped the backpack on the ground. I thought he hurt his back. His back was actually fine. When he jumped, his back was with him, but backpack gave away. It failed to take the weight and somehow was managing his walk. But when he jumped, physics kicked in and jerk increased the weight momentarily and the one of the shoulder strap of backpack ‘broke up’ with the bag. I thought we should give strap and bag some more time to understand each other and suggested putting the bag back in the cab and pick a new bag, but Deesu played forced cupid and tied the strap and bag with a rope. We would later find out that the bag was really bad in relationships. (Two lessons here! Carry a good backpack where each and every part of the backpack gel with each other very well and keep their relationship intact for entire journey(trek)and be careful while jumping with a weight of 10 kg on your back)
After the minor bag incident, we continued our journey. Moments later I felt something crawling under the socks. Instantly I knew what it was! Surprisingly no one felt that till then. We were under attack!
Coming Up in part 2 : a nice 'swim', a steep climb,bush crafting, 'hoda putta,banda putta', change of plans, learn using GPS, plans to abort, unexpected beauty, camp site.